Tag: thru-hiking

September 26th, 2019 Mm 2340.9 to mm 2375.1 Distance in miles: 34.2 0620-1920 I sleep very well and for the first time in a long while, wake up feeling hot. It’s so warm and also dead silent overnight. Not even the crickets are stirring when my alarm goes off. Some coyotes start up while I’m eating breakfast…they too have a thing for the sunrise. And what a sunrise it is… quintessentially New Mexico. Oranges and pinks reflect off the bluffs, pinnacles, and canyon walls. It’s delightful. Just before I cross a highway, a hiker calls out to me from his cowboy camp. It’s Paha, the guy whose footprints I’ve been following and that the artists told me about. Except he[…]

September 25th, 2019 HWY 84 mm 8.9 of Ghost Ranch alt to mm 2340.9 Distance in miles: 21.2 plus 2 miles walking through town and on the highway 1245-1910 We get up early since everyone has to be out and about. Chadi takes off first, leaving us her house to lock up. Then Eden arrives to take Relentless to the airport. It’s a sad parting after all this time. I’ve never had a trail buddy for a whole trail and I can’t imagine what the CDT would’ve been like without him. The trail is so hard, being alone too might have sucked. By 7 am, I’m alone in the house and looking at bus schedules. A bus leaves Santa Fe[…]

September 24th, 2019 Harris Bear Spring mm 25.2 to HWY 84 mm 8.9 of Ghost Ranch alt. Distance in miles: 16.3 0610-1030 It rains a little more overnight but we wake to clear skies. Everything is wet though, and it’s so cold…the kind of cold that is amplified by the dampness. I need a layer for my hands but my crappy rain mitts are still soaked from the night before. I put them on anyways and suffer numb hands. I get such an early start that my steamy breath is obscuring my headlamp beam. I’m not enjoying this hiking in the dark cold morning but I want to get to Ghost Ranch in time for lunch…it’s all-you-can-eat, a hiker’s dream.[…]

September 23rd, 2019 Rio Vallecitos mm 2275.3 to Harris Bear Spring mm .5 of Ghost Ranch alt. Distance in miles: 26.0 0620-1700 It’s so cold in the valley in the morning, as I knew it would be. But at least we’re dry under the trees. We have to climb about 2000′ up and over the last big hill on this stretch at 10,500′. The climb is stretched out over 9 miles, so it’s pretty easy. We run into DinoDNA and Etch a Sketch, a thru-hiking couple that we met in Lake City. They are completing their Triple Crown and first met on the AT. Now, years later, they are a day away from finishing the last of the 3 long[…]

September 22nd, 2019 Lagunitas Campground mm 2245.2 to Rio Vallecitos mm 2275.3 Distance in miles: 30.1 0630-1800 I sleep so well in our perfect campsite. And I get to use a toilet in the morning! The day starts off very cold. We walk through fields covered in frost wherever there’s a stream or seep. First rays hit us right at 7 am and just as a I spot a herd of elk up the hill. They quickly filter into the protection of the trees. You have to get up early to be able to see these guys, especially during hunting season when everybody is out looking for them. We walk through more open fields of high grass, interspersed with aspen[…]

September 21st, 2019 Cumbres Pass mm 2222.1 to Lagunitas Campground mm 2245.2 Distance in miles: 23.1 0940-1800 We hit the coffee shop first thing in the morning, where we meet a lady that asks about our thru-hiking. After coffee, she gives us a ride up to the pass. Her name is Chadi and she’s from Santa Fe. This happens to be our next stop off the the trail, so we hope we can meet up with her again. I’m excited about hiking today because I finally get to return to the trail in New Mexico. We reach the CO/NM border and take some pictures. It’s not hard to say goodby to Colorado because I know I’ll be back. Hello New[…]

September 20th, 2019 Dipping Lakes mm 2206.4 to Cumbres Pass mm 2222.1 Distance in miles: 15.7 0615-1200 It rains and thunders overnight but I sleep through most of it, not too worried. It’s partly cloudy by the time I wake but the wind is howling. We immediately begin climbing to our last point over 12,000′. It’s a gradual ascent as we walk through what looks like a vast prairie. There are many lakes and even some trees, which help to block the wind. It’s quite the transition from the rugged San Juans. For the first time in over a month, I can’t see any more giant peaks when I look to the south, just a series of rolling hills. To[…]

September 19th, 2019 Adams Fork Conejos River mm 2180.4 to Dipping Lakes mm 2206.4 Distance in miles: 26 0630-1740 Instead of just seeing where we end up for the day, we decide on a slightly shorter day for a predetermined destination. For once, the app notes that there’s a campsite at a lake and even has a picture of it. It’s low (for the San Juans, still above 11,000′), just before our last big climb over 12,000′, and leaves only 15.7 miles to get to Chama the next day. We get a little later start simply because I read some comments about having to bushwhack in the near vicinity and I want to have enough light to see. We miss[…]

September 18th, 2019 Wolf Creek Pass mm 2152.8 to Adams Fork Conejos River mm 2180.4 Distance in miles: 27.6 0840-1920 We return the bikes and meet Vickie at 8 am, just as planned. She even brings coffee and peaches for us. We have a pleasant conversation on the way up and we’re sorry to say goodby so soon to our newfound friend. She’s so sweet and kind. I’ll have another person to go back and visit in South Fork now. It’s cold and windy on the divide but at least the sun is shining. The trail climbs immediately to the ridge and ski area, where we enjoy a stroll past all the lifts. The tread is good for many miles[…]

September 17th, 2019 Riding bikes around South Fork Distance in miles: about 5 with the aid of wheels. We need a break after these hard stretches through the San Juans so we take a zero in South Fork. This little collection of buildings that barely registers as a town, on the way to Wolf Creek Ski area and Durango, has become one of my favorite trails towns. I’ll outline some of the reasons why. For starters, this is where Lisa (Peru) lives, the lady that gave me a ride to Lordsburg, NM back in April. She’s unfortunately out of town right now but there’s another trail angel, Karla, who leads the town in welcoming hikers. She’s worked out deals at[…]