Monday, July 22nd, 2024, 0640-1230
Ball Pass Junction camp to Floe Lake, mm 298.1
14 miles, Gain: 3865′, Loss: 3590′, elevation 6670′
I took it easy packing in the morning, since distance-wise it was a short day. Two groups left before me: the Strawbridges of course, and another couple, Colby and Janet. I later found out they were also hikng the GDT. I think pretty much everyone staying at the campsite were on the GDT, since it wasn’t really in the vicinity of big attractions, nor was it anything special as a camp itself. But it was a convenient location along the GDT. This was the first camp we stayed at that wasn’t on our permit, but it worked out. At least we’d paid for 2 sites at another camp, so in my mind it was a fair trade.
Colby and Janet left so early because they were trying to hike all the way to Wolverine camp in one day, which was a massive attempt since it involved around 10k’ of elevation gain. We were lucky to get permits for Floe Lake, which was only about half the distance. In fact, our next permitted campsite for the following night didn’t take us as far as they planned to go this day. I felt so sorry for them having to do such a big day, past such beautiful sights. Such was the deal, given that it was so hard to get permits for any of the campsites along the Rockwall. The section hike had become Insta-famous and there were even commercial guide operations competing for the limited sites.
The first climb of the day was pretty easy and nothing too grand. Well, maybe it could have been if not for all the smoke. It rolled in early this day and was the thickest it had been yet. I could barely see the glaciers on nearby Ball Peak. Heading down was also rather unremarkable. The trail traversed a lot of scree and then entered a 2003 burn area, which wasn’t too bad given all the new trees growing in densely among the burned skeletons that once stood live. There was some deadfall but maybe only 10… nothing like the 1000s in the burn areas on the PNT. The trail followed along Hawk Creek, which was gushing uproariously.
I reached the bottom and crossed highway 93 before 10 am. I counted around 30 cars in the parking lot for Floe Lake. I also passed over 30 hikers that were coming down. Some appeared to be day hikers and others were coming off an overnight, or perhaps longer. Supposedly Floe Lake is one of the most popular camping spots in all of North America. Woody somehow managed to snag 2 sites when the permits opened back in January.
There was a large bridge over the Vermilion River…good thing since it was rather voluminous and blue with glacial silt. The trail began ascending pretty gradually and I busied myself with some mild foraging. I’d just started finding ripe strawberries and huckleberries before the highway, but this side was even better. The strawberries were especially a treat…so sweet!. The hucks still needed a bit of time but I did find some pretty fat and juicy ones. There were also tons of the little red ones that grow on small plants near the ground…they are a type of huckleberry but I don’t know the name. I just call them ground hucks.
The traverse up the valley seemed to go on forever, even though the app promised only 2.5 miles to a creek before the steepest part of the climb. I caught up to all the early risers at the creek, but had to stop for a dunk. Instead of taking my shoes off, I sat down next to a pool and just leaned back into it. It definitely did the trick in cooling me. Already my thermometer was reading 85 degrees. The smoke kept the sun rays from being as intense but also the smell gave the day a stifling feeling.
The very steep part was over a mile and felt like the worst climb yet. The smoke burned my lungs. I passed a few people who were having an even harder time. One guy asked me how far it was to the lake. It was close, but that didn’t make things much easier. At least I knew I’d shortly be done for the day. Finally I gained the top of the headwall and dropped into the lake basin. I caught up to Georgie and Vince and together we made our way to the shore for an immediate plunge into the refreshing water.
Floe lake is famous for the small glaciers that slide down into it year round. But the water was surprisingly temperate. The heat of the day took the bite away. I took multiple plunges for the next few hours. I also tried to soak up the beauty but 2 things kind of throttled the experience. First were the number of people. There were far more than what the 30 some campsites allowed for, but some were day hikers and others just stopping by before they moved onto their next campsite. Far worse was the smoke, though. It really washed out the beauty of the lake.
After a few swims, Vince and I ventured off to snag some campsites. The few with a lake view had long since been claimed, well before noon, and I wondered what it must take to get one of them? Arriving at first light and stalking around until someone with a choice spot leaves? For us thru-hikers, arriving just past noon, we still had to settle for the dregs. We got the last 2 sites together, highest on the hill and farthest from the lake. The tents pads were all either hard-packed dirt or covered with awful sharp gravel. The previous couple nights at least had wood chips. I would have chosen any tiny spot in some tree duff over such terrible tent pads, but they were Parks Canada’s idea of a ‘wilderness experience.’ Effectively, they were a way to control the numbers and the outdoors.
We went back to the lake to welcome Woody to the party and go for another swim. Just as we all got wet, a storm rolled in and it started to rain. We hadn’t seen it approaching since it was so smokey. Vince and Georgie got caught out doing an exploratory hike to the other side of the lake and poor Woody was frustrated that he’d just arrived to enjoy the lake, only to have to retreat to his tent. Worse yet, he’d left his quilt out to air and instead it got wet. By the time we ran all the way back to the tent sites, it was too late. Luckily it let up and the gear was able to dry again in the late afternoon.
The rain was maybe a blessing in that it cleared some of the smoke for dinner. I went back to the lake to eat and take my best pictures all day. Everyone in my group but me was down for the count in their tents after the rain. I felt sorry they missed such a nice sunset. Plus the lake was the quietest all day. Only a few small groups and individuals were reveling in the shoreside beauty. Everyone seemed so at peace and were being quiet and respectful. It turned out to be a really lovely time spending half the afternoon at the lake after all.
