Monday Apr 11th 2022, 0610-1800
The Coxcomb to Oak Creek via Sedona, EABO mm 54.2
I slept really great in my cowboy camp configuration. It helped that not one thing bothered me all night…no bugs, ants, mice, nothing! I heard the soft hoot of an owl and some coyotes in the distance, that was it. We got going early in order to make it to town for breakfast. I wasn’t even sure how far we had to walk to get to town, since we planned to take alternate trails into the west end. We followed a series of mountain bike trails right up to the base of iconic chimney rock, then accidentally took a wrong trail straight up to the base of some cliffs. It afforded great views, so was worth the diversion.
Finally we joined the outskirts of town and made it to the main highway. Unfortunately, I found Sedona to be one of the most pedestrian unfriendly towns I’ve ever had the displeasure to walk The side streets had no sidewalks and I had to play frogger to get across the busy highway where the outfitter was located. An angry motorist laid into his horn after I’d already made it across, not even inconveniencing him in his gasoline-induced hurry. I waved with a single finger to say hi back. Jerk. God forbid someone has to take their lead foot off the pedal for the sake of a lowly person crossing the street. What a chore.
We had breakfast at a nice joint called Nicks and I found some decent tent stakes at the small outfitter. Walking down the main drag, I saw jeep and atv rentals by the score, along with mystical crystal shops, hot yoga, psychic readings, spas, and fancy restaurants. The place had a very artificial and hyped up feel to it…and I should know after living in Miami. But the backdrop of redrocks was ever-present and dazzling… enough to take my mind off the BS. All these material things… especially the ones promising to restore the soul… I’m content in not needing them. I know where to find my inner peace and spiritual well-being. It all lies just outside of town.
But I was in need of some shorts or a skirt after mine had exploded, so off to Goodwill I went. I found a suitable example of each and since one matched the half-off yellow tag sale, I bought both. I almost cried when I threw away my old skirt but I didn’t need to carry skeletons in my pack. Memories. We resupplied at the crowded and busy Safeway and made our way for miles to the east end town district, where we met 925 at a brewery. I got my revenge on all the motorists, walking past hordes of them stuck in a horrendous traffic jam. Honk if you’re feeling frustrated!
We had a great time with 925, drinking craft beers (I loved the pina jolatta!) and telling stories of Hikertrash lore. The town sees gobs of van lifers and some homeless, but rarely does it see a true thru-hiker. We blended in with others with packs on our backs…the difference being that we wanted nothing more than to get away from town by disappearing into the wilderness. Which we presently did as the afternoon winded down. More bike trails led us east to Oak Creek, which we needed to cross. It was running quite well for a creek in AZ, more like a small river, but the crossing was easy. We planned to camp just on the other side, so I changed into my camp shoes. I also took the opportunity to rinse my body and clothes. So refreshing. The song of a canyon wren lulled us to sleep. It was a great in and out of town.