Wednesday, May 22nd, 2024, 0650-1800
Chattooga Rive camp to Hilliard Falls, NC, mm 36.3
22 miles, Gain: 3830′, Loss: 4300′, elevation 1520′
This day went down in the books as the best Waterfalls Day, ever. I enjoyed a waterfall for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with a few smaller bites in between. I slept amazingly alongside the river and woke feeling so refreshed and excited for the day. I walked less than half a mile before coming to Burrells Ford Campground. I was so glad I stopped short the day before because there were many house-sized tents, barking dogs, and people about (probably some habituated bears, as well). I wanted none of that drama, but I sure appreciated being able to use the privy. I briefly talked to a nice lady on my way out, who mentioned doing Te Araroa a year after I’d hiked it. We both remarked how unusual it was to meet fellow TA hikers.
From the campground, I took the 0.4 mile side trail to King Creek Falls, which was definitely worth the detour. It was one of the more beautiful falls I’ve seen. Buoyed by the positive start, I surged up a climb leading from the river valley and bobbed along some ridges for a spell. I passed my previously planned lousy dry campsite (it was fine but forgettable) and briefly stopped for a nice view north to Whiteside Mountain, near Highlands, NC. The trail wound past and along many small creeks, every single one of them with a small bridge or boardwalk. There were also some wood steps, which would become even more of a feature the next day. Plus the signage…so much signage, giving distances and labeling every feature along the way with pretty cursive writing. What a manicured and engineered trail, I mused! But I wondered why a small waterfall was called “Hiker’s Peril?” I could find no explanation anywhere.
I passed a group of 5 hikers going the other way, but otherwise the morning was quiet. I didn’t even know how many I passed still in their tents at the campground. The trail went into North Carolina for a bit, as this section hugged the border. There was, of course, a sign marking it. I crossed the border 3 more times by the end of the day, ending up in North Carolina for the night. By noon, I made it to the food cache at mile 28. I was going to take a break there, but then decided to push on for a break at Whitewater Falls, instead.
While quickly shoving food into my bag, I was shocked to see Jacob coming to get his food. I assumed he’d been to the cache hours before me and was miles ahead. He said something about take a wrong turn towards the falls and forgetting that the cache was here. I guess he’d backtracked some but that still didn’t really explain how I’d caught up to him. He said he didn’t get started until 9 am this day, so that made a little more sense. But I was thinking, 49 more miles was a lot to do in 1.5 days, if he was going to stick to his schedule.
I hiked with him briefly until the side trip to the falls. Understandably, he pressed on and I thought for a second time, that was the last I’d see of him. At the junction, I had to go up a series of stairs, but they were no big deal, and certainly worth the view of the falls! I could have dropped my pack at the bottom, but then I wouldn’t have all the stuff I wanted for lunch. It took me no time at all to blast up with my pack and several liters of water I’d just collected for lunch. There was a bench at the observation platform that was just perfect for taking a lunch break. I even made tea and watched numerous people come and go, hiking a short ways down from the nearby parking lot. A couple stopped to ask if I was thru-hiking and told me they’d hiked parts of the AT. I took this as the perfect opportunity to ask if they’d take my lunch trash back to the parking lot cans with them, and they were happy to oblige.
So many people were struggling with the stairs, it made me reflect on how lucky I was to have my fitness. Even several backpackers on the FHT passed by, all looking a bit wrecked by the stairs. One guy came up the side trail and told me his buddy was back at the junction with their packs, reluctant to go the extra distance and elevation. What a shame, because the falls were so spectacular! We took turns taking pictures of each other in front of the falls, and I hiked with him back to his buddy and then to a crossing of Whitewater River.
I stopped for another swim break below the falls, then enjoyed a leisurely stroll as the trail went gently down alongside the river. Not gentle enough for some though, as I found another backpacker collapsed in the middle of the trail at the base of a small set of stairs. I’d seen her go by earlier while on my lunch break, and apparently she’d had enough of stairs by this point. She rolled out of the way so I could pass and I said nothing because, hey, I’ve been there. It was kind of hot, but I was feeling refreshed by my swim. Fully-clothed dips and my umbrella are my 2 favorite hacks for dealing with the elements: heat, sun and rain.
The trail left the river and I passed a side trail leading to Lower Whitewater Falls. I was tempted to take it but it was almost a mile one way. I still wanted to go another 5 or 6 miles, so I passed on adding 2 more to my day. One more feature appeared…a set of 51 steps, lucky for me going down. I counted them, of course. Yep, 51. This series definitely made some WEBO hikers unhappy, I mused. I reached another short side trail to Hilliard Falls, dropped my pack, and dashed up the side trail. I didn’t think the waterfalls could keep getting better but I was wrong! This was my favorite yet! I loved watching the sheet flow of the water across the slickrock and I of course had to go for another swim in the pool at the base. Outstanding!
I’d intended to go another mile to a different campsite, but these beautiful falls immediately changed my mind. There were 2 campsites in the area. One was along the main trail, developed with a fire pit, benches and people already there, having a fire. The second was on the side trail to the falls, with a partial view of the falls and their ambient sound…empty! Which do you think I picked? Another incredible campsite to round off day 2. I ate my dinner next to the falls while soaking my feet and watching a school of orange/red minnows, which at first I thought were goldfish. Then lights out, relishing in the whispering sound…w a t e r f a l l.