Twig Adventures

Hayduke Intermission #2 and Bonus: Highpoint Substitute

Memorial Day weekend, May 26th- 27th, 2023Music Pass and Sand Lakes, Sangre De Cristo,10 miles, elevation 11,500 I didn’t finish the last 150 miles or so of the Hayduke (yet), and I also bypassed the route’s highpoint in the Henry mountains, due to heaps of snow. While I planned to return to the Grand Canyon to finish the western half of the route in the fall, I doubted I would get back to the Henry Mountains for just one peak bagging foray. Finding myself in Colorado with a bit of extra time after my Aunt’s memorial service, I figured I could at least gain back some style points by matching the Hayduke Highpoint: the south summit of Mt Ellen at[…]

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HayDay 35: A Grand Finale

Friday, May 12th, 2023, 0600-2030West Horseshoe Mesa to the South Rim, via South Kaibab trail 24 miles, elevation 7200′ Gazing at stars every time I woke was a grand experience. But when the quarter moon came up, it got pretty bright. With no trees or tent to block the light, even such a sliver made a big difference. I was also awoken by something crawling on my neck. I only remembered grabbing and flicking whatever it was away, then falling back asleep. It probably wasn’t a scorpion. Oddly, there were 20 or so little beetles crawling under our ground sheets in the morning, so I’d guess my nighttime visitor was one of these harmless critters. Such minor inconveniences were worth[…]

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HayDay 34: Canyon Flowers

Thursday, May 11th, 2023, 0610-1800Cardenas to West Horseshoe Mesa19 miles, elevation 3865′ My little nest among the trees was so snug and complete with the loveliest of birdsong in the morning. The crash of the river waves made me think I was sleeping next to the ocean. I was dreaming that I was on a beach in the Ten Thousand Islands, instead of in the canyon. That is until I looked out to see walls and buttes all around. I left my mesh partially open since the site was pretty much mosquito free (also unlike Florida). The trail greeted us with a nice 1,500′ climb, only to go right back down to the river. We went in and out of[…]

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HayDay 33: The Grandest of Days

Wednesday, May 10th, 2023, 0610-1800Nankoweap to Cardenas via raft and Beamer Trail12 miles (plus 9 miles hitched on raft), elevation 2600′ It would be hard to top the previous day, but we still managed! As I said before, I’d hiked through the GC on the AZT, but never had the pleasure of camping in the canyon before. I slept well but did wake up with a pretty bad migraine. The day before had been excellent but also tough. The heat and exertion had cooked my brain. Thankfully my prescription medicine kicked in quick and we were ready to tackle another hard day. We needed to go about 9 miles along the river where there was no trail. It would likely[…]

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HayDay 32: Nankoweap

Tuesday, May 9th, 2023, 0610-1800Mile 21 of alt to Colorado River \ Nankoweap20 miles, elevation 2800′ It was a very quiet night and I slept so well. I think I heard a western screech owl but that was about it. We had a big day planned: to get down to the Grand Canyon! First we walked the remainder of the road to the trailhead. We found several streams along the way, filling up on beautiful clean water, all run-off from the snow melt above. We climbed towards Saddle mountain for quite a ways, which I didn’t appreciate knowing how much we’d just have to go down to get into the canyon. Must go up to go down! My pack felt[…]

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HayDay 31: The Grand Chapter

Monday, May 8th, 2023, 1230-203089A & House Rock Rd jct to mile 21 of alt21 miles, elevation 5750′ We took it slow in the morning. Sky had just finished a 5 day leg through the Buckskin and lower Paria loop alternate, so understandably had a lot of errands to attend to. I chilled out and wrote some postcards. Our hunger drove us to make another run to the grocery store…I wasn’t sure if I was carrying enough food for what should be about a 5 day leg. This was dependent on getting a raft hitch across the Colorado River, so one can never be too certain. Then we set out to hitch south from town to at least Fredonia, where[…]

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HayDay 30: Pieces to Arizona

Sunday, May 7th, 2023, 1130-1500Hwy 89 to Wire Pass14 miles, elevation 4750′ First thing in the morning, I booked a flight from Las Vegas to Denver for May 16th, committing to a pretty tight timeline. I left myself about a week to finish the Hayduke through the eastern Grand Canyon. I planned to meet Sky at Jacob Lake at the end of the day to start from there. Since I’d already walked the section from the Utah\Arizona state line to Jacob Lake on the AZT in 2019, I decided to skip it in the interest of my limited time. But I still felt a need to hike the 14 miles from the highway (where I’d gotten a ride to Kanab[…]

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Hayduke Intermission #1

What follows is kind of a bullet list/summary of the days and activities of a week off from the Hayduke (Sunday, April 30th–Saturday, May 6th). I needed time to rework my plans for the upcoming Grand Canyon segment and hopefully let some of the snow melt. But first, a bit of an explanation is in order: During this interim, I had time to really assess my situation, coming to terms with many concerning factors. To follow the official Hayduke route through the western Grand Canyon in the spring of 2023 was straight-up impossible. The record snowpack had not only made the Kaibab plateau difficult to traverse, the snow melt also led to extreme flooding in most of the major side[…]

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HayDay 29: Kanab

Saturday, April 29th, 2023, 0645-11201.5 miles south of LeFevre Cabin to HWY 89, then ride to Kanab15 miles, elevation 5350′ I felt especially cold overnight. It was significantly warmer in my tent but the wash was quite chilly…down to 31 degrees once we started walking. It wasn’t a very good site but we didn’t have much of a choice. I knew it would be blazing hot later and still couldn’t reconcile such oscillating conditions. I would slowly transition from wearing all my layers, including puffy, to nothing more than my dress and sunbrella. Another typical day in the desert. We were walking fast in the morning, anxious to get to town, where the conveniences of a car also tempted us.[…]

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HayDay 28: Snow & Sand

Friday, April 28th, 2023, 0645-1910Mile 35 of Bryce Extension to 1.5 miles south of LeFevre Cabin28 miles, elevation 5900′ This was one of my longest days on the Hayduke and it certainly felt like it at times. We got an early start and immediately enacted new plans. Overnight, we’d noticed that we could take a lower elevation route called the Grandview Trail. It stayed well below the rim and outside the park, only rising to 7900′. The main Under the Rim route would have taken us over 9000′ and we’d already been encountering a lot of snow at much lower elevations. For some reason, the south end of the park seemed to be holding more snow, perhaps because a lot[…]

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